Cliffs, Caves and Cranes
Comprised of three major islands; Malta, Comino and Gozo, main island Malta is just 121 sq. miles (316 sq. km) and only 17 miles (27 km) across, and yet it is home to nearly 700,000 people. Malta has known 11 foreign rulers each of which left behind various traces that can be found around the Maltese islands. Today, Malta is an independent republic, having gained independence from the British Empire in 1964, though the country is still part of the British Commonwealth.
Around 17,000 years ago, the Maltese islands were the mountain tops of one landmass which connected current-day Malta to Sicily and probably mainland Italy. The remains of the Megalithic temples that Malta is known for are the oldest free-standing stone structures in the world - older than Stonehenge and the pyramids of Egypt.
Ever heard of the Maltese Cross? The Knights of St John (also referred to as the Knights of Malta) were given control in the early 1500s by Spain. But they are most remembered for successfully defending the island against the Ottomans later in the mid 1500s. The eight-pointed cross, often associated with the Knights of Malta, later became known as the Maltese Cross. The eight points denote the eight aspirations of the knights; “to live in truth, have faith, repent one’s sins, give proof of humility, love justice, be merciful, be sincere and wholehearted, and to endure persecution”.
Since the mid-1980s, the island transformed itself into a tourist destination as well as a freight trans-shipment point. It’s location in the central Mediterranean (coupled with English, the language of the sea, being one of its official languages along with Maltese) make it strategic for the unloading of goods from one ship onto another to complete a journey to a further destination. Good ship building and repair service also made Malta the perfect place for us to leave Meraki while we build more Schengen time outside of the EU countries.
We circumnavigated all three islands over the course of a week, discovering a few quiet anchorages between the expanding construction of high rises (scattered in amongst the historic sites) in communities along the coast. We swam, paddled and relaxed some while also spending time sorting through hatches, lockers and cupboards, digging into the deep recesses of Meraki and pulling out things we’d brought aboard that ended up unused. We planned to carry these items home and free up space for other more appropriate items.
While exploring the islands we noticed small, beautiful, elaborately painted wooden boats. We learned that over the years, they have become a major symbol of local identity and an icon of the islands. The bright shades of red, blue, yellow, and green, are meant to represent the land, sun, sea, and green fields.
The Eye of Horus is watching out for you.
The Maltese Luzzu, as they are called, date back to the Phoenician times and are a traditional fishing boat. Along with the bright colors they often have a painted or engraved pair of eyes on the bow. These eyes are believed to be a modern survival of an old Phoenician tradition, and are normally referred to as the Eye of Orisis, or the Eye of Horus – the Phoenicians’ god of protection from evil. A symbol of protection and good health, they are believed to protect the fishermen from harm while out at sea.
Due to its stable, sturdy and reliable design, the boats can be used in any weather conditions. They normally have a double-ended hull and were once equipped with sails. Today Luzzus are slightly larger and are usually motorized, but other than that, the design and style is very similar to the ones used in ancient times. Many of these boats are inherited from a person’s father or grandfather. Due to superstitious belief, the fishermen continue to maintain their unique, familial shades and pattern. Therefore, when the old paint is worn off, the boat is re-painted in exactly the same way that the person’s father or grandfather had.
After our circumnavigation we returned to the marina in Valetta (the capitol city) to finish up some chores. Tom found a repairman to come to the boat and fix the oven which had been inoperable for over a month. He replaced a small part and we were back in business! We took a few walkabouts in the town of Gzira where the marina is located, before meeting up with my sister for a few days who was traveling with a couple of friends en route to Italy. Together we explored the old city of Valletta on foot and sampled the local food and spirits. One day we took them gunkholing up the east coast to Gozo for a day of swimming, paddle boarding and relaxing. It is always wonderful to have visitors aboard Meraki and we are so thankful for those adventurous spirits interested in experiencing our unconventional lifestyle.
All too soon their visit came to an end and it was time to prep the boat for haul-out. We moved into Grand Harbor, closer to the boatyard, where we would haul Meraki out onto land for three months. We spent the weekend stowing everything; flags, lines and fenders, emptying the fridge and freezer, tucking away dry goods, cleaning and packing.
Pre-dawn on Monday morning we navigated Meraki the last few miles into the boatyard, gathered up the last of our belongings and departed. While we are stateside she will get new bottom paint and a coating on the running gear to keep it free of marine growth and protect against corrosion. We will also polish the fiberglass and stainless so that when we return she will be ready for another season of cruising.
Natural limestone salt pans
Our last day we walked around the community of Birgu, also known as Città Vittoriosa, an old fortified city on the south side of the Grand Harbor, exploring the artisan food shops. There I learned about the ancient tradition of harvesting sea salt in Malta. Naturally I did a little research. It turns out that salt harvesting is an old tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation since Roman times.
The formation process of the salt begins when sea water starts to fill crevices or pans cut into the limestone rock along the coastline. This sea water is left to settle for just over a week before it is moved to warmer salt pans further away from the shore. When the salt pans are ready, the seawater is drained and the remaining substance is left there to evaporate. Then begins the meticulous process of moving the sea salt around at regular intervals until achieving the right balance of moisture and dryness, whereupon it is swept up and packaged by hand. Today salt crystals are still extracted using the same traditional methods.
Our last weekend in Malta before flying home to Alaska happened to be the start of this years Rolex Middle Sea Race. The race dates back to 1968, when two rival members of the Royal Malta Yacht Club designed the racecourse to put their skills to the test. They decided to create a race during the windier autumn season.
The starting gun, a canon at the Fort of Valletta, commences the 44th Middle Sea Race.
An international fleet of yachts meets every year in Grand Harbor for the Rolex Middle Sea Race. The racecourse is a counter clockwise circumnavigation of Sicily and is approximately 606 nautical miles long. There were 110 yachts representing 26 nations at the start of the 44th Edition of the race on October 21st, with over 1000 crew from close to 50 countries. This year the winner was a 93 foot sailboat with a crew of 20 people, while the second place winner was a mere 33ft double-hander. They were separated by only 24 seconds in corrected time. An exciting race for any sailor!
Coats, scarves, hats and gloves — weird.
We’re now back in the US visiting with family and friends for the next few months. See you back here in January. Happy Holidays everyone!