A Week in Rome
After three days in Salerno we headed north towards Rome on the first good cruising day. It would be another long, overnight voyage. We had relatively calm water and gratefully it was another moonlit passage. I found the abundance of stars overhead reassuring. After departing just before noon we arrived nearly 23 hours later in midmorning. We had reserved a berth in a marina in Ostia, an ancient Roman city and the Port of Rome. It is located just south of the mouth of the Tiber River and 15 miles (25 kilometers) southwest of the city. We were again expecting nasty winds and high seas so the plan was to sit tight and spend some time exploring this renown city - which neither of us had ever visited before.
To get to the main attractions from the marina we walked 15 minutes to the bus stop, and took a 20 minute bus ride to the train station. From there it’s a 40 minute train ride to the metro station, followed by a 35 minute subway ride. Our transit into Rome took about 2 hours but when we stepped out of the metro, we found ourselves outside the Colosseum! I think we were a bit stupefied because we immediately began walking away from the crush of tourists to a quieter street for a spot of lunch and some time to plan what we wanted to do and see.
After an amazing lunch of roasted artichoke pasta and clam linguini with asparagus (highly recommend both) we sampled the gelato - which, I’m told, is a daily requirement when in Rome! The city is a gastronomical feast and the gelato is nothing short of amazing.
Okay, so lets talk about the important things. Though the word ‘gelato’ translates to ‘ice cream’ - it is not the same! Both contain milk, cream and sugar and yet the differing proportions affect the amount of fat in each dessert, as well as the mouthfeel. Both are churned to create that creamy, scoop-able yumminess, but it is the speed at which they are churned—and the resulting amount of air incorporated—that is different. Gelato is churned at a slower speed than ice cream which creates a denser consistency since less air is whipped into the mixture. It contains about 25 to 30 percent air, while ice cream can contain as much as 50 percent air. And, gelato is stored at a slightly warmer temperature than ice cream, making the texture softer and silkier. I’m no ice cream expert, but there really is no comparison - until you’ve tasted real Italian gelato you just haven’t lived!
After our first gelato (many more still to come) we explored the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps. What can I say? I honestly do not think anything can prepare you for so much architectural beauty in one place. Every little street, church, garden and square will amaze you in some way. The arches, the domes and the vaults. The marble columns and the mosaics. The churches! There are over 1200 of them within Rome. And, of course, the fountains - over 2400 fountains - all with potable water!
On another day in the city we visited the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and climbed Palatine Hill, the most central of the seven hills of Rome. We also explored the Farnese Gardens - the first private botanical garden in Europe. It is filled with laurels, cypresses, yews and citrus trees. Again we walked and walked, taking in as much as we could.
Someday we’ll invest in these - two will set us back by at least $1000!
The next couple of days it was so rough we were sequestered on Meraki. The wind blew so hard, even inside the marina, that it was impossible to get off the boat. We were jerking and tugging on the lines so violently it was hard to sleep, let alone cook or eat. We stepped outside only occasionally to check our lines and fenders, as did the young couple living aboard their boat opposite us on the pontoon. Once safe to disembark we chatted with our Italian neighbors, Massimo and Elena, who had sold everything a year ago and moved aboard their 45’ sailboat. They both work from home and are wintering at the marina in Ostia. During the night their boat was hit several times by the vacant boat adjacent to them. And the jerking of the lines actually snapped their stainless steel shock absorbers! They were heading into the big city (they have a car) to go to the chandlery and asked if we wanted to join them. We had lost a fender somewhere along the way so we happily went along. It was a 3 hour round trip but mission accomplished. They also drove us to the grocery store where we stocked up on all the things, and then some, since we didn’t have to carry it all home. It’s always fun getting to know other sailers and we are so grateful for their kindness.
We ventured into the city one final day. This time we discovered a different bus line which was much closer to the boat, thereby shortening the 2 hour transit by over half an hour. We wanted to visit the Vatican Museums, Vatican Palace, Sistine Chapel, and Saint Peter’s Basilica. We decided to pay for a tour this time so as to avoid waiting in the Vatican line - which can take between 1-2 hours! Besides the quick entry, the tour was SO worth it. I knew next to nothing going in and learned more about Christianity and Catholicism through the ages than I could have imagined.
The Swiss Guard (no matter your antics they do NOT smile…trust me!)
You're probably already aware that Vatican City is an independent nation-state within Italy, but I didn’t know that it is not the only one. San Marino, the third-smallest country in Europe is also located within Italy's borders. Vatican City, though, is the smallest country in the world (0.17 mile² or 0.44 km²) - the entire population is about 800 people. The clergy and civil servants, those who contribute to the religious operation, and the Swiss Guards who ‘defend’ the City, are the only people allowed to reside within the Vatican City. It has its own currency, police, laws, and so much more. And, of course, the current Pope is the absolute monarch and holds absolute power.
While touring the Vatican Museums I became fascinated by Michelangelo. During his life, the western world underwent what was possibly the most remarkable period of change since the decline of the Roman Empire. The Renaissance saw changes in all aspects of life and culture, with dramatic reforms extending through the arenas of religion, politics, and scientific belief. Michelangelo's impact on art was no doubt tremendous - his deep understanding of the human form beyond comparison. What I didn’t know was that as a teenager he was already becoming a philosopher and a writer and would eventually become one of the greatest thinkers of the day. Our historian/tour-guide shared a wealth of information about Michelangelo’s personal life and pointed out where he interspersed his dissident beliefs into his work. I am eager to study more about this fascinating artist.
Another crowded subway ride
After another exhausting, gobsmacking day of sightseeing, and finding ourselves completely overwhelmed by this time, we began the long transit home. Pleased with ourselves for knowing a shorter trek back to the boat, we arrived at our ‘closer’ bus stop well after dark only to discover that the gate into that end of the marina was locked! To add insult to injury it began to rain. No longer so pleased with ourselves, we then waited for the next bus, rode it another three more stops, and made the long, wet walk through the entire marina home to Meraki. Time to dry off and cozy up with a cup of tea and a movie - none other than Angels & Demons, of course!
I believe you can spend years, possibly decades, exploring Rome and never run out of new discoveries. It has been a major human settlement for almost three millennia. Generation after generation were built atop one another. There are far too many sights to even mention. My one piece of advice if you’re planning to visit Rome, do not fill every moment with activities but rather take it slowly and investigate the sights you happen upon by accident. There are no shortage of hidden gems - something to see and learn (and eat!) on every street, in every corner of this enthralling place.
Notes:
I just realized, perhaps aptly, that this post is as much about food as it is about the sights!
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